605.222.5088 | HC 3 Box 121B | 16684 BIA RT 8 | Gettysburg, SD 57442 info@thedxranch.com
Bridling Made Easy

Bridling Made Easy

Around here, we are all about becoming partners with our horses. We want our horses to “want” to help us. To “want” to be with us. To “want” to be bridled and go for a ride. So we take great care in helping them stay in that frame of mind. We get them get them good about searching for a release, and good about looking to us for support. Bridling made easy is part of that. We know that often people have trouble with their horses when it comes to getting them ready to ride. We also know how easy it is to get into a habit with your horse of just skating by, because you only have so many hours in your day and only so much time to spend with your horse. But what if, by spending that time, one or maybe two days, and not riding, you can help your horse, and in turn make your time with your horse eve more enjoyable? I’d say, sign me up.

Below, you’ll find a couple of ways we might go about getting them ready to be bridled and one way to bridle them. These are not the only way. These are just a couple ways we choose to do things.

Before you were to start either of the exercises below, you’ll want to make sure your horse is good about having his mouth/face/ears touched.

We hope this helps you in your horse endeavors.

My Internship Experience

My Internship Experience

Today, we have a special guest writer– Emma, one of this summer’s ranch interns. She’s here to share her experience with you and tell you how much she learned and how much she loved it. If you’d like to go back and read her journey in her own words, check out her blog, here.

So without further ado, here’s Emma, to share her summer experience with you. She forgot to mention that she was fortunate enough to tag along to the annual Buck Brannaman Clinic I attend. Happy Trails!

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My internship at The DX Ranch was absolutely everything I had hoped for and more.  I thought I would just be working with horses, but I learned many valuable lessons with cattle that tied into the concepts that I was learning with the horses.  I learned more in those six weeks on the ranch than I had in the last ten years of horseback riding.

The list of activities I engaged in and learned how to do would be far too many to detail.  I cannot even start to explain how valuable each one has been to my education, especially those I learned working with the horses.

When it came to the horses, we worked with them almost every day.  Most days we got to ride, but some days we just worked with the yearling colts.  My first day was a little rough, since I did not know about anything they were teaching me.  They use the training and riding methods of Ray Hunt and Buck Branamann, but I had never really studied those before.  However it didn’t take much time before I caught on to what they were teaching.

The first thing I learned was how to saddle my horse without hitting them or knocking a stirrup into their side.  I also learned a better way to bridle that doesn’t bang them in the teeth.  After that we moved to guiding the horse with my feet only and transitions using my seat position.  Both concepts were very new to me, and I still need to practice them a lot.  Having been riding so differently for the last ten years made it a little bit more difficult to grasp these new techniques.

DX Ranch Interns and Jenn (of the DX Ranch) take a break at branding.

Ranch interns hang out with Jenn, horsemanship instructor at the ranch.

We then worked on moving the hind end both through groundwork and riding.  I learned the four ways of moving the hind end while on horseback and the difference between working with an eight year old and a yearling.  Working with a yearling is a lot more difficult because you really have to make your presence known and you need to move your feet fifteen steps for every step they take.  Jenn said, “if you’re not breathing hard, you’re not doing it right.”  With colts, there is a release for every try they make, whether they did it the way you wanted them to or not.  I also got to see a difference in halter breaking a yearling as opposed to a two-month-old colt.  With the two-month-old, we released for every try, when he faced you, or when he moved his hind end.

Whether you’re working with a colt or a fifteen year old, you must always “keep a float in the rope.”  This means you must keep some slack in the rope so you don’t drag the horse around.  This is one of the basics of the feel method of training.  It lets your horse feel where you want him to go.

Every bend begins with a reach.  That is probably one of the most important concepts I learned on the ranch.  Without a reach, the horse simply cannot bend.  When you reach for your horse to bend, he should also be reaching for you.  That feel of your hand sliding down the rein should be signal enough that you want him to bend.

However, I could not help my horse to reach until I found where my horse’s feet were.  I worked on timing when my horse was picking up a certain foot.  They also showed me how to pick up a certain foot with the rein and place it somewhere.  After all, Buck Branamann said in his clinic, “The reins are hooked to the horse’s feet, not the mouth.”  The slightest adjustment in timing can make all the difference, whether I am on the ground or on horseback.

DX Ranch Intern, Emma, roping.

Roping out of the rodear.

To help with reaching, they told me it would help to make a plan for my horse’s feet.  Instead of mindlessly going around the arena and changing what I wanted to do every second, I should make a plan, almost like a pattern, so that my horse can stay engaged and it is easier for him to understand what I am asking of him.  If he doesn’t respond to Plan A, go to Plan B, but continue to work at it until Plan A prevails.

Toward the end of my internship, we worked a lot on leg yields and haunches in. I had never really been taught how to leg yield properly, so it was definitely nice to see how it should be done.  Both of these are great exercises for shaping the horse for changing leads.  Without them, you cannot properly set up your horse for a certain lead.

When not working with the horses, I learned a lot about roping and cattle.  On the first night I arrived, I learned how to bottle feed calves.  Although it was a chore, I was always excited to go see my calves.  It was the only consistent thing I got to do on the ranch so it was quite relaxing.  I also got to go out with the ranch hand frequently to check the cows and calves in the pasture.  He taught me how to tag the newborn calves as well.

A few weeks into the internship I got to attend some brandings.  This consisted of gathering the cows, sorting, branding, flanking, fly tagging, and long hours.  Although they could be crazy hectic days, they were some of the most fun while at the ranch.

We even worked with the yearling cows on the ranch in the pasture.  I learned a way of herding them slowly and smoothly, walking around them in a circle to get them used to riders doing that, and cutting one out of the herd.  From there we worked on changing eyes and hooking them on to your horse.  On my last day we even got to use some breakaway ropes on them.  When I had arrived at the ranch, I had never even picked up a rope.  On my last day, I was able to swing some head shots at some yearlings and I was getting better and better at my heel and trap shots with the roping “dummy.”  Not many ranchers would let someone so novice even near their cattle to rope them.

My stay at The DX Ranch was phenomenal and has taught me so many valuable lessons with horses and life.  I cannot wait to continue to build on everything I’ve learned and to one day train my first horse from the ground up.

By the end of the internship, everything I learned started to come together.  It was definitely difficult trying to learn something completely new in regards to horses, when I’ve been riding for ten years already.  But it was definitely a wonderful experience that has changed the way I look at horses and myself for the better.  I owe Zach and Jenn so much for letting me stay with them and teaching me so much about horses.

Tips for a Fidgety Horse

Tips for a Fidgety Horse

The last thing any horse really wants to do is fidget. No, seriously, think about it. If you’ve watched them in the pasture, when they’re not eating, they’re lazing, and if they’re young and full of energy, they’ll play for a bit and go back to eating or lazing. They’d rather be at peace than bothered, and to me, a horse that paws is a horse that’s bothered.

What pawing/fidgeting really comes down to is this: The horse doesn’t know how to be still. And often, instead of allowing stillness to be the easiest thing for the horse, we force them to be still – we go right to tying them up because we are short on time and want to ride. We’ll stick them in cross-ties, snub them up to a post, or tie them to the trailer, instead of allowing them to move. I’m sure that it may sound counter-productive but to get a horse to be still he’s got to be allowed to move his feet, so he’ll learn that the easiest thing to do is be still.

As a result of us going right to tying them up once they’re caught, a few things happen:

  1.  The horse learns to be still while he’s tied up.
  1.  He’ll paw because he has to have his feet be still and mentally he’s not ready to be still.
  1.  When we get on, our ride goes to hell in a hand-basket, because the mentally isn’t with us, and isn’t ready to be still. He just knows if he’s not still while tied, he’s in trouble.

To help the horse learn to be still, instead of forcing the issue, there are a couple things you can do.  Brush him, while you hold him.  If you see/feel him start to get ready to move, beat him to the punch – and quietly ask him to disengage his hips or lead around you. That way he thinks that you knew what he was thinking.   Offer him the chance to be still, and go back to brushing him. If he can’t be still, you might change directions.  If you don’t make a plan for your horse’s feet, he will.  Repeat the above as needed.

Eventually you’ll have a horse that will stand quietly for you to groom and tack — one that can even be tied up — but first you may need to go back to square one. And remember — never do this in a spiteful, angry way.  Your horse will know and you won’t be as effective.  Leaders of the herd never do things in an emotional way like a human would — they’re concise and true in their actions.

Make the right thing easy, and the rest will fall into place.

 

Happy Trails!

This post was originally published at Cavvy Savvy.

What is a Snaffle Bit?

What is a Snaffle Bit?

We see it at least once a week.

In a newspaper ad, on Craigslist, in Facebook Horse Groups – someone says they have a short shanked snaffle for sale. I’d like very much to explain to everyone that writes that, that they don’t technically have a snaffle bit available. You have a leverage bit, or a curb maybe, but a snaffle bit, notsomuch.

You see, a snaffle is a snaffle because it isn’t a leverage bit. Any bit that has shanks becomes a curb bit (or leverage bit)- whether it has a broken mouthpiece (like a snaffle) or is a ported grazing bit. The reason for this is that a snaffle works on a direct rein and doesn’t utilize leverage.

The pressure from the reins on a snaffle bit is not amplified, unlike with a leverage bit. When you pull on a leverage bit, such as a Tom Thumb or Argentine, the pressure is increased the farther back the shank reaches.

There are several different mouthpieces available in “true” snaffle bits: Jointed -the most common. Mullen – essentially one piece.  There is no break in the mouthpiece.

French link or Dogbone- has a smaller “dog bone” shaped piece in the middle, making it a three piece mouthpiece.

Single and Double Twisted wire – two of the most severe mouthpieces.

Mouthpieces typically come in different dimensions – 7/16th of an inch and 3/8ths of an inch are probably the most common – but you can find them in ½ and ¼ in diameters too. The smaller the diameter, the more severe the bit can become. Myself, I like a 7/16th mouthpiece.

As well as the different mouthpieces, there are many different cheek styles too. In western riding the four most common are:

O-ring or loose ring snaffle.

D-ring

Offset D-ring

the dx ranch, snaffle bit

Greg Darnall Off-Set D- Ring Snaffle

Greg Darnall Off-Set D- Ring Snaffle

Greg Darnall Off-Set D- Ring Snaffle

Egg-butt (because it’s shaped kind of like an egg).

the dx ranch, horsemanship

JPW Egg Butt Snaffle

Snaffle Bit

JPW Egg Butt Snaffle

There are basically two different ideas when it comes to where a snaffle bit should hang in the mouth of your horse We prefer to hang the bit a tad below the corner of the horse’s mouth. I know many of us grew up in the train of thought that we needed a wrinkle (or two) in the horse’s mouth. But, what we’ve learned by riding primarily in snaffle bits (they’re the only bit we now own and I run all my barrel horses in them) is that the horse will learn to carry it where he likes it. Further, it gives us a chance to ask with less pressure, and have the horse respond to less because there is a very discernable release for the horse due to the fact that his mouth isn’t already pressured up due to the “wrinkles”.

So, the next time you see a bit labeled snaffle, I’d like for you to think of this little Public Service Announcement and ask yourself, is it really a snaffle?

Happy Trails and Happy Riding!

Proper Saddling Technique

Proper Saddling Technique

We’ve probably all seen it happen: a wreck where the saddle ends up under the horse. It can happen for any number of reasons – a latigo could break, or you could be in the process of saddling your horse when he spooks, and under him the saddle goes.

One of the ways to prevent that from happening is to utilize the “correct” order for saddling, if you will.

  1.  Always pull your front cinch first.
  2.  The back cinch goes second.
  3.  Finally, the breast collar (if you use one).

By securing your main cinch first, you’re ensuring that the saddle shouldn’t roll under your horse if something were to happen while you’re in the process of saddling. We like to take it a step further, and on our saddles with a double rigging, we like to lead the horse forward a few steps once he’s saddled and take the front cinch up some more.

Rarely do we tie our horses up when we saddle them. They’re always being held in hand. That way they don’t get in the habit of sitting back or wiggling around, because we have control over his feet from the get-go, and because we know what’s on his mind when we’re saddling him, we can help him stay with us, and that inevitably makes our rides go better.

properly saddled horse, how to saddle a horse

We never cinch a horse up as tight as possible on the first try. EVER. We may take several steps forward with the horse, several times. We figure we don’t like to put on jeans that are tight, so we don’t really want to do that to my horse!

Do the same for the back cinch. If you ride with your back cinch loose, instead of snug up against your horse’s belly, you run the risk for a couple bad things to happen:

  1.  You could catch a spur in it.
  2. Your horse could catch a hind foot in it. THIS is never good, and the ending won’t be happy for your saddle. Trust me.

If you remember the order for saddling your horse, the order for unsaddling your horse goes like this:

  1.  Breast collar.
  2.  Back cinch.
  3.  And finally, the front cinch.

The front cinch always goes last in the unsaddling process, just like it’s first when you saddle.

By getting in the habit of utilizing this process, you can keep yourself and more importantly your horse out of a bind.

Happy Trails and Happy Riding!

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